Assorted Betta

Betta splendens

Note: Due
to variations within species, your item may not look identical to the image
provided.

Care

The brilliantly coloured long-finned varieties of the
Siamese Fighting Fish seen in many shops today have been developed over the
years by captive breeding projects. Indeed, the natural wild colouration for
this species is actually quite a dull green/brown, with relatively short
finnage. Many strains, such as the Longtail, Shortail, Crowntail, Half Moon and
Double Tail, and various colour types including red, blue, green, white,
golden, black, marble, and many others, have been developed and are now
available to the hobbyist. Siamese Fighting Fish, although capable of breathing
atmospheric air via their labyrinth organ, must always be housed in filtered
aquaria. Small vases and bowls are not suitable and are considered most cruel.
These fish deserve proper stable water conditions and temperatures, as does any
fish in our care, and this can only be achieved in a closed system by use of a
heater/thermostat, a filter and regular partial water changes. Male Siamese
Fighters should never be housed with other males, as territorial battles will
break out immediately. As these attacks can be very violent and stressful to
the fish, the loser will invariably end up becoming weakened and if not
separated from the other, it is likely to be pursued until it is killed. It is
wise, therefore, to take your time to find yourself the male of your choice and
keep him as a lone specimen. Females of the species often display slightly more
muted colours and generally possess much shorter finnage. It should never be
assumed that a male and female can be housed together within the confines of
the same tank. Females themselves can also be surprisingly aggressive, and if
conditions are not exactly right for breeding, the male will attack her. If you
wish to add a female, the best way to introduce her is by use of a divider, so
that the pair can see each other but not physically get at each other. If,
after a few days of the male and female fish observing each other there appears
to be no confrontational displays, you can try removing the divider. Be sure to
observe them for some time after removing the divider in case the fish are not
compatible and it needs to be put back again. More than one female can be kept
together, although the group must consist of at least 5 individuals. Smaller
groups of females will result in the Alpha fish (the one at the top of the
pecking order) picking on the subordinate females. In larger groups, any
aggression will be spread amongst the group, rather than just one or two fish
bearing the brunt. It is not advisable to house male and females together
permanently, instead this is best carried out only when spawning is being
attempted (see below). An aquarium containing just female Siamese Fighters
without male company, but along with other compatible community fish, actually
makes for a very beautiful sight. The aquarium itself should be at least 24?
long and contain a maze of heavy planting (both rooted and floating specimens).
Although these fish will adapt to a wide range of conditions, they will be seen
at their best in soft, slightly acidic water (peat filtration suggested). The
filter should provide a gentle water circulation in order to mimic the natural
conditions where this species originates from: rice paddies, floodplains and
other slow-moving waters. As mentioned above, Siamese Fighting Fish have the
ability to take in warm air from above the water?s surface, so a small gap must
be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the
fish to accomplish this. Tankmates should be relatively small (although not too
tiny or they may be mistaken for a snack), peaceful and not prone to nipping
fins. Male Guppies should be avoided, as the male Siamese Fighter may well
mistake their ornate finnage for that of another male Siamese Fighter.

Feeding

Small frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, brineshrimp,
daphnia etc. Will also take flake and ?Betta formulas? from the surface of the
water.

Breeding

The first difficulty is in obtaining a compatible pair, as
not all males and females will be suited. A separate well-planted breeding
aquarium should be used, along with a divider so that male and female can be
kept separate until you are happy that they appear compatible. If not, you may
have to try again on another occasion with a different female. The second
important point is to ensure you have adequate time to observe the spawning
process, as the female cannot be left alone in the tank with the male once the
process is complete. If all goes to plan, the male will build a bubble-nest at
the water?s surface amongst floating plant cover, and entice the female
underneath it. As the eggs are expelled and fertilised, the male catches any
that stray and places them in the safety of the bubble-nest. Once spawning is
over, the female must be removed immediately or the male may end up killing her
in his defence of the egg-laden nest. These eggs should begin to hatch in 24-36
hours and the fry are usually free-swimming 3-5 days later, at which time they
may be offered tiny foods such as infusoria. It is of extreme importance to
maintain a warm layer of air between the surface of the water and the
coverslides at all times whilst the fry are developing their labyrinth organ,
critical during the first few weeks of their life.